Tuscany, Italy
Last Fall, before the current Coronavirus crisis, we took a trip to Tuscany, one of Italy’s most popular tourist destinations.
With its beautiful rolling hills and Mediterranean cypress trees, spectacular medieval-walled towns, and world-renowned food and wine, Tuscany has so much to offer.
Dream
La Bandita Countryhouse - Home base for our trip was La Bandita Countryhouse, just outside the small town of Pienza in the Val d’Orcia region. The town lies between Montalcino, 15 miles to the West and Montepulciano, 8 miles to the East.
The instructions for locating La Bandita were dauntingly long and detailed, an indication of its remote location. However, we managed to locate the Countryhouse at first attempt. The final part of the journey was a long, 12-minute drive along a narrow, bumpy gravel track lined by cypress trees. The path winds its way between the rolling farmers’ fields which surround La Bandita.
The property consists of eight rooms in a rustic stone villa with a cottage annex. Other amenities include an outdoor dining terrace area, infinity pool and a TV lounge.
We arrived early at the property, hours before the designated check-in time, and were greeted by the very welcoming staff. We were offered lunch, prepared by the fantastic on-site chef. More of this later.
Our room was large, bright and minimalist in nature. It was a little less luxurious than many rooms where we have stayed on this trip, yet still very comfortable. And the large rain shower, with a view out across the rolling countryside, was perfecto. Unfortunately, the owner has sold this property but there are resources such as www.villacollective.com that can help you find a similar experience.
Dine
Breakfast was included at La Bandita, served in the communal kitchen-dining room. A wide selection of European-style items were included, together with tasty Italian coffee and freshly squeezed fruit juices.
We opted to dine in-house every evening. This was largely due to the remote location of the property, and the previously mentioned gravel track. While initially slightly anxious about the communal nature of dinner at La Bandita, our concern was quickly dispelled. The meals prepared by the resident chef were of a very high standard, and our fellow guests were unexpectedly convivial. If fact these dinners quickly became another highlight of our time in Tuscany.
Each night we shared the Countryhouse table with three or four couples in a very social atmosphere. Eating dishes created by La Bandita’s chef, we chatted about our exploits that day and our plans for tomorrow. The cuisine included homemade pastas, locally-sourced meats and fresh vegetarian options. On our last night, we had a fantastic, seemingly never-ending series of eight or more different homemade pizzas, served family-style and finishing with Nutella pizza for dessert.
A good selection of first-rate Italian wines were available to accompany dinner, at very reasonable prices. Drinks and conversation continued after dinner around the outdoor sunken fire-pit.
Osteria Le Logge, Siena – traditional white-tablecloth osteria serving very good homemade pastas and fresh local meats and vegetables in the center of Siena, close to the Town Square.
Do
Day Visit to Siena – Siena is one of the most visited tourist attractions in the country. It’s most known for its fan-shaped town square, distinctive cathedral, and the Palio – a biannual horse race often featured on television and in movies such as the James Bond film Quantum of Solace.
Siena, which was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995, is many people’s favorite town in Tuscany, and it is easy to see why. The Duomo di Siena is a strikingly beautiful 13th-century Romanesque-Gothic building constructed in white and black marble in alternating stripes.
The town square, Piazza del Campo, is formed from herringbone pattern terra cotta tiles, and is a very popular gathering place. The square is dominated by the Palazzo Publico, or town hall, which serves as the seat of Siena’s government. Its campanile or bell tower, Torre del Mangia, was built between 1325 and 1344 and was the tallest structure in Italy at the time. Piazza del Campo is the site of the Palio, the world-famous horse race which is held every year in July and August. Ten jockeys riding horses bareback circle three laps of the square on a thick layer of earth laid specially for the event, which lasts approximately 90 seconds.
Wine tasting in the Montalcino Region – the vineyards surrounding the town of Montalcino are famed for their Brunello; a red DOCG wine produced from 100% Sangiovese grapes. We hired a driver for a day of wine tasting. After a brief stop at the Medieval town of Montalcino, we visited two local vineyards: Tenuta Fanti and Santa Giulia.
Tenuta Fanti, Montalcino – this was the larger of the two wineries we visited. We took a tour of the winery and the cellars, followed by a tasting of their fine Brunellos.
Santa Giulia, Montalcino – this was a much smaller, family run vineyard. The owner took us on a tour, and we met his father and son along the way. Then we sat down in a rustic stone building for a delightful home-cooked lunch with pasta made to a family recipe that the owner’s wife helped prepare. And more Brunello.
Images from Tuscany
